Vol. 1, No. 01

January 19th, 1995

LEAVING HOME

Vol. 1 No. 1                                                      January 1995

    When I retired my dream to travel about the country for an unforgettable adventure came true when I bought a thirty-four foot Bounder recreation vehicle, hooked up my 1980 VW Rabbit and set off to explore the United States. I named my motor home “The Ham Hog Hurrier,” or Bacon takes up a lot of room speeding down the highway. When I left Mansfield Center, Connecticut I told my family I planned to stay away from home for at least six months. There were no qualms in my mind about traveling alone. My son Scott awaited my call at the end of the first uneventful day of travel. “Well, Mom,” he said, “I guess our roles have reversed. You used to worry about me, now I worry about you.” “I have a special guardian angle.” I answered.  And did that angle do good work!

    One day while driving along Route 81 South trying to dodge the monster trucks a Fairlane Ford passed me and quickly ducked in front of my motor home, real close. It seems that some drivers just can’t wait to get in front of you and slow down.. A monster truck came barreling down on me snorting fumes like a dragon, boxing me in behind the Fairlane. We proceeded thus for about a mile when a grungy arm projected from the Fairlane window motioning me to slow down. A fleeting thought crossed my mind: “Could this be a setup?” “Too suspicious,” I scolded myself and slowed to a stop thinking: “Something is wrong with my tow vehicle.” The Fairlane door opened and out ambled a geezer who looked very much like Donald Pleasance in one of his more grizzly, stubble-faced, villain’s roles. Before I could release my seat belt and extract my legs from the drivers seat he was down on his knees banging on the right front hubcap. As I opened the door he looked up. Between aqueous chews of tobacco he said, “I been following you and seen your hubcaps been flopping and just knowed you was gonna lose it.” Bang! Bang! Bang! “But, it just don’t wanta attach itself rightly.” Bang! Bang! Bang! “Well,” I said, “if it won’t go back on is it possible to take it off so that I can stop at a gas station and have it put on properly?” He then tugged and grunted and finally spat out, “Sss’stuck.” I could see that it really was coming off yet impossible to put back on. Massive mastication of the cud aided the thought behind his next, “I knowed where there’s ‘ha station just down aways that kin fix it for your. I’ll follow you just in case it comes off. Then I can get it up for you. When we’re at the exit I’ll pull in front of you again just like before.” “OK,” I said, as I reached to close the door. With a sly look he added, “You all alone?” Now, I ask you, wasn’t that nice of the old geezer to help a lady in distress?

    Off I drove at a minimum speed of 40 miles per hour until I “hit a bad one” and heard the hubcap clatter all the way under the 34 feet of the motor home. So again I stopped to see if he might be able to “get it up” for me. He had stopped a quarter mile behind me and was already out of the Fairlane prancing back and forth along a tall grassy embankment that led to a marsh. I was all set to walk back when a rather large fleet of metal monsters loomed in the distance headed our way. I stood by the road and watched my hero prance around and peer into the grass. After some minutes it looked as if he had located the offending hubcap for he continued to peer at the grass and then darted down the bank and up again – empty handed. He gave up his roadside dances then, entered the Fairlane, and drove up to me. He emerged from the car with a tortured look on his face saying. “It ain’t nowhere I can see. Too bad, they is awful expensive.” He paused briefly, looked at me slyly, then continued, “I know cause I collect ‘em at home. Have a whole yard full of them. Can’t just see yours back aways. I just live a peace down the road. Now if you could come home.……..”

    Don’t want to bore you so…….. Next installment whenever I get to it.

     Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon

Vol. 1, No. 02

July 19th, 2010
    Well, you didn’t really think I wanted a hubcap so bad that I would follow the old geezer home did you? Later I checked the left front hubcap and found two bolts attached the remaining hubcap to the wheel. Guess my hero was really only trying to help me since there was no sign of bolts on the one he tried to remove.
    The second night of the trip, in Troutville, Virginia, I “boondocked,” my first experience sleeping in the motor home by the side of the road with no hook-ups for electric or water. I pulled off Route 81 into a large parking lot behind McDonalds Restaurant. There is a knack to sleeping peacefully when one does this called, “Fear no evil.”
    In the dark next morning I traveling through the Blue Ridge Mountains. Once again metal monsters kept me company. When packs of them passed me I became afraid they would not see the lights on my tiny VW Rabbit in tow, when long past me I yearned for their company. At the top of the mountains the sun winked at me on the horizon as it spread golden fingers over fog wrapped valleys. Pine spires rose in black clusters above the fog heralding a new day. I traveled 494 miles that day and arrived at my destination at 5 p.m. for the “Great WIN Fall Gathering.”
    WIN – Wandering Individual Network, a national group of single men and women traveling about the United States in recreational vehicles. Years ago Dorothy Prince founded the organization. We all fondly referred to her as “The Princes.” She traveled in a 40 foot motor home with her computer and printer firmly anchored to the dash so she could produce the monthly ‘Windows’ newsletter, the only means of communication among members. There are no meetings, no officers, and no fuss, just tons of gatherings and caravans all over the country throughout the year. Painted on the rear panel of her motor home is a three foot square WIN logo, the black and white checkered flag seen flagging in winning cars at race tracks. Each afternoon of a gathering, with chairs and drinks in hand, WINners gather in a large circle to meet old friend, catch up on past adventures, drink and eat munchies, and finally learn the itinerary for the next day’s sight seeing. On the last day of the gathering future gatherings are planned.
    Linda Key-Millsaps, owner of Chanticleer Plantation in Milner, Georgia, offered her lovely plantation with its spacious grounds for our fall gathering. Linda is a true southern bell with an extremely soft voice and gentle manner. She drives a 38 foot Star Craft motor home with a slide-out section that holds her sofa and dining table. Two years ago, when I met her in a caravan to Mardi Gras, she stopped at a flea market along the way and bought a parrot. Rainbow, as she named it, promptly became ill and Linda spent days boondocking in a veterinarian’s parking lot until Rainbow was well enough to travel. When she finally caught up with the caravan, then parked for Mardi Gras, she found she could not leave the bird because of it’s constant need of medication. Linda willingly missed all of Mardi Gras for the love of her parrot. Rainbow still travels with her, complete with his cage perched on the passenger seat and a huge piece of drift wood across the entire dash of her motor home. No need for Rainbow to fly with a first class viewing platform from which to see the world.
 
     Chanticleer Plantation, managed by Linda’s son-in-law James, operates a facility that produces approximately 900,000 broiler chickens per year for McDonald Restaurants. It also grows pulpwood and hardwood trees.

Chanticlier Plantation, Milner, GA.

I arrived at the gate leading into the grounds where Live Oak trees cast long shadows over the lawn as the sun flickered through the leaves creating an achapeligo of lemon green islands wavering on a dark green sea. I drove along the spotless white drive past a glassy lake where two sleek white swans serenely glided over the dark blue surface. James directed me to the circular drive in front of the white pillared mansion and around the house to the sweeping lawns in the rear. I arrived bleary-eyed, hot, sticky, tired and hungry. The Ham Hog Hurrier parked easily in the old orchard behind the house and my Rabbit, then unhooked, rested easily by its side. James greeted me with an itinerary five pages long, and of course my favorite – Hugs! Hugs from all, those I knew and those I would come to know, but hugs. This is a tradition with WIN members. First time greetings, and every morning thereafter throughout the gathering, every person hugs every other person. Does this ever start the day right!

    WINners arrived the next day in various types of rigs. A great many motor homes towed cars, trucks towed fifth wheels and trailers wheeled in behind vans or trucks, and they too scattered about in the old orchard. I watched an interesting woman named Margaret park her motor home next to me. She told me she left her home in Colorado for the trip east. Twenty miles down the road she found a sale on hot tubs she could not resist. After her purchase, with the hot tub strapped to the roof of her tow vehicle, she proceeded on her way east to Georgia first taking a turn through Ohio. When she drove into the plantation orchard the new hot tub sagged over the car doors like a melting moon. Prior to leaving for home she planned to stop in Alabama, and Texas where she would spend the winter returning to Colorado in the spring, all with the hot tub strapped to the roof of her car.

    Milner, Georgia, located between Atlanta and Macon, is close to many interesting places. Sightseeing, with Betty and a new WINner, Wizard, proved to be the beginning of a long odyssey. We chose to tour The Hay House, in the city of Macon first. This 1800’s ante-bellum mansion, built by William Butler Johnson, the keeper of Macon’s Confederate Treasury, nestled on the edge of the Georgia Piedmont. The interior glistened with crystal chandeliers, sterling silver, and elegant, polished, antique furnishing and oriental rugs. We walked through the rooms in hushed awe of true Old South elegance.

    Our next stop, the Holt Home, became known as the Cannonball House. General George Sherman, of the Union Army, ordered a cannon fired at the house on July 30, 1864. The infamous ball flew through the wall of the house and fell to the floor of the front hall during the battle of Dunlap Hill in Macon. No one has swept up the ball yet.

    We returned to the plantation to find southern chefs preparing a pig roast on the patio by the pool, and WINners assembled with lawn chairs and appetites. Those without chairs sat at the pool’s edge dangling tired feet in the water while eating roast pork and corn on the cob.

    The next day James’ itinerary included a tour of the Little White House, Franklin D. Roosevelt’s summer White House.

Hot Tub and Pool

The sun burned up the sky leaving us parched and ready for leisure hours in Chanticleer’s hot tub, with it’s soft bubbling overflow into the pool. It restored many tired limbs and feet. Moonlight beamed down upon us through giant palm trees creating a tranquil and romantic place to chat and swim.

    One evening we all watched “Fried Green Tomatoes” in preparation for the next day’s visit to historic Juliette, Georgia, the location of the successful movie of the same name. The town consists of the Ocmulgee River, a mill, a railroad depot, and of course the famous Whistle Stop Cafe where WINners lunched on fried green tomatoes.

    The last evening James assembled several tractors to pull wagons for a hay rides to the Light House Restaurant where we enjoyed an extravagant seafood buffet. We ate until we were full to the brim and overflowing, and then again climbed aboard the wagons for a slow moonlight ride returning to the plantation over country roads lined with Live Oak trees dripping Spanish Moss.

    Mid-way through the gathering it started to rain. It did not stop for days. On departure day no dry land remained for us to traverse to the road through the apple orchard. To the rescue of those of us in need it meant a tractor tow by James. Seven days, orchestrated with ‘winning’ southern hospitality, gave everyone memories to carry on our separate ways to all points of the compass.

Andersonville National Cemetery

Heading south to Unadilla, Georgia I stopped at the Andersonville Civil War Prison site. During the Civil War the village of Andersonville became the terminal for 45,000 Union Army prisoners of war who arrived by rail during 1864 and 1865. The prisoners marched a quarter mile to Camp Sumter where 13,000 men perished. The cemetery is a very moving memorial to the Civil War dead, made even more impressive by massive state monuments erected among the crosses of their dead.

Miles traveled to date:1,654

             Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon

Vol. 1, No. 03

July 20th, 2010

 

Vol. I, No. 3

FLORILOW OAKS RV PARK, FL

    I arrived on October 15th at my final destination, Florilow Oaks RV Park, located in central Florida. It is owned by the LOW’s, Loners on Wheels, another national singles group for people of all ages. It is positively the most friendly park in Florida. Coffee, toast or donuts each morning, happy hour every day, frequent cook-outs and pot luck suppers, camp fires many nights with potato bakes, movies, and each holiday is celebrated as a family gathering in the recreation hall. There are trips to plays, or Disney World, deep sea fishing, beaching, and not to be ignored, the wonderful feeling of being part of a community where everyone cares about each other when away from home. After two weeks of stop-overs and travel from Connecticut, I was certainly happy to find Jan and B.J., the park managers, ready to help me set up my rig.

Hamhoghurrier at Florilow Oaks

    As I settled into life in the park it was evident this year was to be full of surprises.

Inside the Ham Hog Hurrier

A few days after my arrival a couple, who had known each other only two weeks, eloped to Virginia. Soon after that the WIN’s started to arrive. First Theola, then Margaret, now famous for the gigantic hot tub overhanging the roof of her tow car, next Pattie Barton Browne. Pattie is a sweet little gal who was “The Most Winning Female Jocky in the World” for several years during the late 1960’s and early 1070’s. Her story unfolded for all the WIN’ers while we were in Milner, GA through a video tape she had of her interviews with talk show host, Johnny Carson, plus a chilling on site film of her final race. At that time she was a stunning, petite blond reaping rewards of the life totally dedicated to winning horse races. Her last race,  and accident, was a horrifying spectacle watched by thousands of her fans. As she told us, the owners of the horse positioned in front of her horse during the race had allowed their horse to receive injections of steriods, which weakened the leg bones. We saw the video of the race showing their horse as it broke a leg and fell causing Pattie’s horse to trip over it and fall head over heels on top of her. Then the two following horses tripped over her horse and fell on her also. Pattie was alive after being crushed by the three horses, but hospitalized in a coma for weeks. When she regained consciousness she was on the mend from broken bones and internal injuries. However, sadly, she was brain damaged. She has brought her mind and body back with the help of her devoted husband, now deceased, to the point where she can travel in a motor home and manage her own affairs. We all love Pattie and find her humorous and full of life. She has a smiling face and charm which brings pleasure to all the WINers who are lucky enough to meet her in their travels.

    Speaking of travels, as I look out my window I see the “Racing Irish Setter” passing by. His owner bought a golf cart so he could take the aging dog for a ride around the RV park each day. The Man sits hunched over the steering wheel, cap turned backward, his face taught as a race drivers trying to get the last ohm of speed from the electric gas peddle. The Setter sits up straight and proud as a thoroughbred with his wind blown ears stretched out behind him and his eyes mere slits against the breeze, sheer ecstasy mingled with excitement expressed in his panting face. Over all the paved roads of the park and into the field around the lilly pond they race each day. But after two laps the Setter is worn out and lays down, his head hanging over the edge of the seat, ears limp, eyes closed and snoring. The Man continues pressing the peddle to the metal for another two laps trying for the checkered flag.

    Soon other WINers entered RV parks near by and the call to rally for supper and planning session went out. The next day I joined seven WINers, Nelda and Gene, Lee and Lois, Betty, Wizard and Dorothy (the Princess, Vol. 1, No. 2) for a trip to Sea World. Sunny Florida was never better! Several days after Wizard and I went to Epcot at Disney World and the next day to MGM Studios. Sunny Florida became better and better! Following that another new WINer, Dick suggested and evening at the Arabian Nights Dinner Theater where we enjoyed a top round roast of beef dinner while viewing a fantastic Arabian horse show. Thanksagiving was drawing near so we all packed up our rigs to travel south for another holiday “Great WIN Gathering.”

    On November 22nd the rigs began to assemble in Arcadia, FL. One by one thirty plus WINers parked, unhitched tow vehicles, leveled units, unfolded awnings, tucked folding chairs under their arms and headed for the WINers Circle (4 p.m. happy hour), and of course HUGS! News soon spread about a surprise wedding during the weekend and quickly the whispered “who” gained momentum around the circle, but Larry, our wagon-master, only grinned at us.

    Thanksgiving dinner, enjoyed by all the Winers and everyone else at the park, was pot luck with cooked turkeys supplied by the campground manager. Have any of you ever been to a pot luck dinner for two hundred people? Besides tons of turkey we were stuffed with stuffing, masses of mashed potatoes, canisters of cramberriers, gigantic mound of green, vans of veggies, barrels of bread, piping hot pies, washtubs of whipped cream and finished with truck loads of toothpicks. After dinner each and every one of us drifted to our rigs in a drowsy semi-coma of delightful overstuffed delirium not to be seen or heard from until the next day.

    Now on to the happing of the weekend, ‘the wedding.’ Betty, Wizard, Nelda and I were elected to buy the makings for the reception and prepare the food. The WIN members all chipped in to pay for everything. Fun! Fun! Fun! Particularly buying balloons that announced in pink and purple, ILOVE YOU, and YOU ARE SO SPECIAL to trail the newly wed motor home. Sandwich making in Wizard’s rig was serious enjoyment as we prepared and sampled goodies. We took turns speculating about who might be the happy couple. The appointed hour arrived on Sunday afternoon. All the WINers were assembled in the recreation hall sporting best bib and tuck. The organ played, we held our breath, then Lois walked down the isle to join Lee forever in one rig to live happily ever after.

    Once again at Florilow Oaks RV Park I expected to settle in for December and the holidays, however that was not to be. Wizard popped into my rig one day saying he had invited Nelda and Gene to spend the holidays with his family at his brother’s home in San Antonio, FL and extended the invitation to me al;so. I accepted.

    San Antonio was originally started many years ago with 2,500 inhabitants. It was advertised as the Little Chicago of the South. It grew magnificently and now has a population 2,501. It has the most charming center green surrounded by a narrow road and sidewalk. Along one side to the green is the Catholic Church, rectory, and school, on the opposite side the post office and town hall with a one room police station. The two remaining sides are lined with typical Florida homes. At night their candles and Christmas tree lights twinkle from windows. Each evning through the holiday Wizard and I walked around the green viewing many 4 foot high painted boards with Christmas greetings to friends and strangers to enjoy. Luminaries lined a path leading to a ginger bread gazebo decorated with poinsettias and holly.

    The highlight of the Christmas season was another trip to Epcot to enjoy the Disney Candlelight Processional presentation of the ‘Holidays Around The World’ celebration in the America Garden Theater. It featured a solem retelling of the Christmas story backed by two hundred carolers, six trumpeters and twenty bell ringers, all in Victorian costume. One evening we attended the Tampa Bay Performing Arts Center presentation of “CATS.” We ’Jellicle Cat Lovers’ then walked from the theater to the world famous Berns Steak House for juicy steaks and desert in their special desert room. Do I have ’Memories!’ New Year’s Eve Wizard and I spent at Disney World Pleasure Island which featured Fleetwood Mac, Peobo Bryson, The Marshall Tucker Band, and Buster Poindexter. The evening included elaborate free food buffets throughout the Island, with free champagne at every corner. An awesome fireworks display and the biggest confetti storm ever exploded at midnight. Needless to say, I was happy and exhausted after such a rousing holiday. Guess what happened next.

Miles traveled to date: 1,971                  Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon

Vol. 2, No. 01

July 26th, 2010

                                       KEY WEST, FL   

After such a full schedule over the holidays it was inevitable I capture the most evil virus in the world. I decide to head for warmer weather at Marathon Key, FL. When I pulled into the Jolly Roger RV resort, located midway along the 127mile chain of Florida Keys, my friends Claire and Dan Avery welcomed me with one of Claire’s special dinners.   

Two weeks into my recuperation Wizard suddenly appeared at my rig. Well, I want you to know my aches and pains flew out the door as I gathered my sun hat and off we drove to Key West to lunch at the Two Friends Restaurant owned by his relative. Printed on the napkins I read ‘No Greater Love Than the Enduring Tender Love of One Drunken Friend for Another.’ We enjoyed delicious stuffed snapper. Next we walked to Earnest Hemmingway’s famous haunt, Sloppy Joe’s Bar, for its famous frozen drinks, after which we hopped on the Key Train to tour the island. Late in the afternoon we walked through a small ally way that led to Mallory Square, a wharf filled with craft and food venders, fortune tellers, and at the very end Dominique and His Flying House Cats. Dominique trains his cats to jump through hoops on command, one blazing hoop held at Dominique’s arm’s length above his head. Shadows grew long on the wharf inviting us to sit on the edge rail to watch the sunset. Just as the last ray of sun sank below the surface of the sea we were lucky enough to see the famous parting green flash. To top off the day we enjoyed a light supper at the Hog’s Breath Saloon, their napkin advertised, ‘Hog’s Breath Is Better Than No Breath At All.’   

Several days later we enjoyed a three hour sea side hors d’oeuvres lunch at Snappers restaurant on Key Largo. We started with Russian Oysters swimming in sour cream and caviar, scrumptious conch chowder followed, then fish pate, crackers and wine, steamed little neck clams, and once again conch chowder.   

On the return trip to Florilow Oaks RV Park in Bushnell, FL we stopped at the new Escapee Park in Moore Haven, FL. Wizard insisted on giving me a tour of his childhood stamping grounds not far away in Miami, so the next day we drove to Port Everglades and started down Route 101 through Hollywood, Miami Beach, Coconut Grove and ended at Key Biscayne. There Wizard surprised me with another sunset dinner where we sampled hors d’oeuvres, wine, and  dolphin at the Rusty Pelican Restaurant. The following day he booked a dinner cruise for us on Lake Okeechobee, the largest lake in Florida and well known for bass fishing. Believe me, Wizard’s wand produces great feasts!   

Speaking of fishing, would you believe I became a truly dedicated fishing enthusiast after taking my first fly fishing lesson?   

Withlacaooche River

 The day began by loading fishing gear for five people and five guides into five canoes, and heading down the last four mile section of the 86 mile With-la-cooche River and into Silver Lake. It is a black water river. Its brackish, or tea colored water is the result of tannins and organic acids from surrounding cypress swamps and pine forests. It is overhung by massive, twisting limbs of Live Oak trees draped with pale green Spanish Moss. Some limbs hung so low over the water we had to bend low in the canoe to glide under them. Each canoe contained a novice in front with a guide in the rear to paddle and instruct the fine art of fly fishing.   

My guide, Jim Swan, was a seasoned, bewhiskered, round bellied river man who kept telling me I would catch a fish. He gave detailed instructions, “Lay that fly in amongst them thar roots.”   

Casting from Shore

I’d whip that fly rod around like a real pro. You could hear the line whistle through the air, and sure enough, on my back stroke the little brown bug on the end of my line would land high in some Spanish Moss. Jim never tired of back paddling and struggling to release my misplace hook. By noon, after numerous back paddles and reassurances from Jim that I would catch a fish, and after several lost and gone forever little brown bugs, he directed the canoe to the river bank and set up the Coleman stove and shortly thereafter presented us with a hardy meal. We feasted on fried fish, hush puppies, macaroni and cheese, corn, coleslaw and fresh melon for dessert. Conversation during lunch centered on the fish caught tally. Sad faces told of our non-profit morning. After cleanup, which included tossing melon rinds to the alligators, we pushed off our canoes ready to tackle another bite of the river.   

     

Again and again Jim reassured me that I would catch a fish, and believe it or not, by mid-afternoon I was able to lay that fly in amongst ‘them thar’ roots – precisely! By 4 p.m. we came out onto Silver Lake and continued to fish along the shore as we paddled toward our pull out destination. I felt like a real failure with not a fish in my basket. In desperation, long after the others gave up complaining of tired arms, I flung out my little brown bug.   

Suddenly I landed three small Blue Gill fish, one after the other amid whoops and hollers from Jim and me. Needless to say we took pictures, and of course I ate my fish the next day.   

Well, once was not enough. A week later, joined by Wizard’s brother and his wife, he rented two canoes so we all could try for the big elusive fish we all previously failed to hook.   

Wizard and I alternated between paddling and fishing, and soon we each caught Stump Knockeers, a beautiful, fierce fighting fish. Once again I lost my hook and little brown bug to the Spanish Moss, but regardless of what I lost during the morning, in the afternoon I caught a 180 pound prize on my back swing. This one pounded the boat and made the Wizard’s paddle go ca-fluie. Finally I turned around to see my ‘big one’ red faced with exasperation and pain pulling on the hook caught in his lip. The moral of the story! Never, ever hook the lip of the hand that paddles the canoe, for you shall ever after paddle the canoe yourself.     

The Grand Dame of Fly Fishing

 For a chance of pace, since I was so dangerous, Wizard took me to the Art Festival at Church Street Station in Orlando, FL where we lunched at Rosie O’Gradys prior to touring an excellent juried art and craft show. For fun we tried Virtual Reality before ending the afternoon at Hooter’s Restaurant. Over beer and buffalo wings we made plans to caravan west together to another Great Win Gathering.     

Moral of this entire newsletter – eat your way to happy oblivion for you shall never regret it!     

Miles traveled to date:2,809          Copyrigh©1995 by Anita Bacon

Vol. 2, No. 02

July 27th, 2010

                                     HEADING WEST

At the crack of dawn on April 15th my 34’ motor home, “THE HAM HOG HURRIER with RABBIT TAIL,” and Wizard’s 5th wheel towed by a Ford truck, pulled out of Bushnell, FL and headed West for the Great Win Gathering in Mexican Hat, Utah.

At the Crack of Dawn

Surprises filled the trip. The first night we boondocked in a 24 hour WalMart parking lot at Panama City Beach, FL opposite the thrilling Bunge Cord Jumpers Paradise. Late into the evening we watched jumpers who persisted in flinging themselves into the air from a box held by a crane that both raised them and lowered those whose courage failed at the last minute as they peered over the edge at 200 feet down. The stout of heart made swan dives, back dives and nose dives, all to the tune of high pitched squeals. Base grunts came from the unsuspecting as the giant bunge snatched them up just short of the ground and tossed them to rebound up another 100 feet for another heart stopping tumble. The Companion Jump was a two-seater, high-backed swing, held on the ground until attendants strapped each person in place. A gigantic sling shot this contraption 200 feet into the air. Held tightly, no one could back out of that one.

After Easter Sunday dinner at Rainbow Plantation RV Park in Folly, AL we pushed on to Biloxi, MS where we arranged to meet my daughter-in-law Mary’s brother, the chaplain at the VA Medical Center in Biloxi. Father Popeleski and I had met several times over the years at weddings and funerals where our conversation consisted of appropriate platitudes for the occasion. However, since I had spent three years attending an elementary convent boarding school when very young, the big reverence mind set remained – you know- “Yes Father,” “No Father,” punctuated with a genuflect for good measure and grace. We parked our rigs at the designated spot to await the meeting. Suddenly a snazzy white T-Bird zipped around the corner and pulled up to us with a swirl of dust. Out stepped a handsome, tall man in a bright sport shirt, curly black hair and bushy beard. His greeting smile was all warmth and cheer. With that, I tossed away my childish reverence and flung my arms around him for a hug. Off he sped us to a beautiful beach front restaurant and treated us to a delicious seafood lunch. He absolutely mesmerized us with his dynamic personality and stories about his world travels. He took us to the Veterans Hospital and gave us a tour of the grounds. Before returning us to our rigs he drove all the way to Gulf Shores to show us a house he hoped to purchase. Finally we stopped at a lovely historic tree house in a spreading Live Oak tree where we sat high in the graceful limbs sealing a lasting friendship. The afternoon sped by and with reluctance to leave such a fun loving person Wizard and I were once again on our way west talking on our CB’s* to one another about the magnificent afternoon spent with ‘fabulous Frank.’

We traveled across Mississippi on the beautiful shore road overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. Sandy shores soon turned into Louisiana bayous that we crossed on causeways. On the outskirts of New Orleans the local TV station warned of an eight p.m. curfew in the city for all teenagers. As we drove into the city outskirts, we saw huge billboard signs.

                                  “STOP THE KILLINGS”

                 ONE HUNDRED YOUNG BLACK MEN MURDERED

                       IN NEW ORLEANS SINCE JANUARY 1ST

We learned that young men arm themselves with the latest assault weapons, and although I never heard it, people said they could hear the ra-ta-tat of the guns at night near our park. Consequently, we chose to tour New Orleans the following afternoon.

Wizard made lunch reservations at ‘Christians,’ one of the fine restaurants featured on the Public TV series, ‘The Great Chefs of New Orleans.’ We smacked our lips over Oysters Roland, drenched in mushroom and garlic butter, Oyster Chowder, a creamy oyster and potato soup, smoked redfish poached in a wine butter sauce, and French-fried Eggplant. Can you believe we ended with Baked Alaska? Later we walked up and down Bourbon Street filling our senses with the sights of old wrought iron balcony railings, tourist shops hawking left-over Mardi Gras beads, shirts and cups, and aromas of ‘poor boy’ sandwiches and fried clams. Poking around in other sections of the French Quarter we found expensive antique shops featuring gilded furniture and ornate mirrors. One store window gleamed with elaborate silver tea services, and next to it a store filled with exquisite, crystal chandeliers hanging from an ornate tin ceiling.

Around the next corner we came to Canal Street. The New Orleans World Trade Center stood tall before us at the river’s edge. The building houses maritime companies, foreign consulates, banks and the port offices. We looked up at the top to see the famous circular Top Of The Mark, the world’s largest revolving cocktail lounge. A late afternoon aperitif seem the only way to end our afternoon. The lounge is located thirty-three stories above Canal Street and revolves three feet per minute, or one entire revolution every ninety minutes. It offers the finest vantage point for observing the most popular landmarks in the Queen City of the south. While we enjoyed our drinks and hors d’oeuvres dusk began to settle over the city. We watched vessels from around the world circle the city on the sweeping bend of the Mississippi River.  The Vleux Carre, the 18th century quarter where New Orleans began, unfolded leisurely as the lounge turned. Newer development, such as the Jax Brewery, the upscale shopping arcade, the River Walk, a futuristic collection of shops, restaurants and cafes, and the New Orleans Convention Center all came into view. By the time we finished our drinks we were once again looking at Canal Street, now aglow in its colorful night lights.

When we departed New Orleans the next day the sky was overcast with a dark and ominous western horizon. The weather forecast was not good. Scattered, severe thunder storms were forecast with tornado watches in the Houston, TX area, our next stop. We chatted, nibbled nabs and drove through the mist which turned to light rain, which became heavy, progressing to a flooding downpour. Wizard called me on the CB saying he heard a report of tennis ball sized hail falling in Houston and severe tornado warnings. At times we were in a downpour, suddenly it would cease, then the cloud burst above us again. When the rain cleared we could see huge dark clouds ahead of us. Then we traveled into the next cloud burst where the roads were like wadding pools holding an inch of water. Since the land was so flat we saw ahead in the next break in the downpour a fuming black cloud descending ready to let loose its terror when suddenly Wizard called me on the CB in an excited voice.

“Pink Lady!”

Sorry, running out of time, but I will return.

*CB- Citizens Band Radio – Means of communication between vehicles.

Handles – CB code names – mine is Pink Lady.

Miles traveled to date: 3,811    Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Vol. 2, No. 03

July 29th, 2010

 

                                  TEXAS AND ARIZONA

“Pink Lady!”

I knew something was wrong by the tone of Wizard’s voice. I could not see him in my rear view mirror, however, I saw a red van speeding over the flooded road about to over take me.

“See that red van? Get the license number. It just dove straight into the side of my truck.”

Then the van slowed and followed me as I pulled over to the shoulder of the road. I could not back up because of my tow vehicle, so waited until news came to me through a thoughtful young man who witnessed the accident. Indeed the van nosed into the truck side doing almost eighty miles per hour, glanced off the door and side-swiped the entire driver’s side of Wizard’s truck as the two vehicles traveled down the highway together. Fortunately, no one was hurt. Wizard handled the whole affair in his usual calm manner. That night we pulled into a campground on the out skirts of Houston, TX where we later heard Houston’s suburbs suffered severe tornado damage at the time of the accident.

Wizard decided to postpone repairs to his truck until we reached Modesto, CA. On the following bright sunny day we headed to San Antonio, TX. Immediately we found the unique River Walk so famous for its boutiques and restaurants. We ate at Michelins overlooking the river canal where the tourist boats floated by. Later we strolled past interesting gift shops, clothing shops and hat shops. In all our travels Wizard tried on every cowboy hat in every store we entered never finding one that suited us both. But there, in the window of the Paris Hat Shop, we both knew immediately his chapeau sat on a tall hat pole. I called it his “Howdy Mam!” hat because he wares it tilted just a little over one eye.

In Deming, TX we headed for Rock Hound State Park to camp, but gave that idea up after driving ten miles back east on a rut filled, dirt road to find that the RV park was located on a 5% slanted rock heap. In the city of Deming we found, not only a 100% level RV park , but 100% pure water. Locals claimed it to be the purest in the United States. I washed my clothes, my hair, my rig, my car, my teeth every hour on the hour, loaded my 50 gallon RV water tank, up-teen bottles and jugs for the refrigerator, and drank all I could hold in the short one night stay.

Traveling from Deming, NM to Benson, AZ we heard an informative radio program about the importance of electrolytes to the body, and how the body reacts without the proper intake of these acids, bases and salts. Some years ago a solution was put together to replace the important carbohydrates and electrolytes in the human body when they are lost due to dehydration. It is wonderful Gatorade. We found powdered, lemon and lime flavor in three pound containers. Hopefully we will avoid headaches, stomach cramps and general grumpy dispositions. Wizard bought a good supply for our trip into the Canyon Lands.

At Benson, AZ we decided on a side trip to historical Tombstone where the American West is well preserved with quaint, rickety buildings. The town reached its pinnacle of riches and fame and then faded, all within the short span of eight years. Silver is what brought people to this Apache infested land. It owes its beginning to Ed Schieffelin, who prospected the nearby hills. Friends warned him that all he would ever find would be his own tombstone. But instead he found silver –ledges of it – and the rush was on. Miners soon built a shanty town on the closest level space to the mines, then known as Goose Flats. Schieffelin changed the name to Tombstone. In 1885 the population reached 10,000 rivaling Tucson, the county seat. More than $37, 000,000 worth of silver had been taken from the mines before water began to seep into the shafts. Pumps were installed, but the mines soon flooded to the 600 foot level and could not be worked. By 1887 Tombstone’s heyday was over. Today Tombstone merchants take pride in keeping their town as authentic as it was 100 years ago.

We visited the Old Bird Cage Theater, now a registered National Monument, that offered a nostalgic trip into the past. The ladies of the town never entered the Bird Cage, or walked on the same side of the street as the establishment. The entertainment on stage included Eddie Foy and Lotta Crabtree. The dance hall and casino sported fourteen bird cage compartments still hanging from the ceiling. These compartments held the ladies of the night prostitutes. The refrain for the song “She’s Only a Bird in a Gilded Cage,” became one of the nation’s most popular songs. Today each cage remains with its original red velvet drapes and tassel trimmings. The hand painted stage with its original curtain retains its faded luster. Directly below the stage are the wine cellars, dressing rooms and the poker room. A minimum of $1,000 in chips graced the table before a player held one hand. The game ran continually for eight years, five months and three days. Red-coated bartenders served at a custom-made cherry wood bar still backed by the original French mirror with its famous painting of Fatima. The painting stands nine feet high and carries the scars of six bullet holes. One of the famous characters of western history who came to the Bird Cage was Wyatt Earp who met his third wife, Sadie Marcus, at the bar. History did not record if this happened before the famous Earp and Clanton feud culminating in the famous gunfight near the OK Corral. When disaster struck Tombstone by the flooding of the mines, the Bird Cage was sealed and boarded up with all its fixtures and furnishings intact. It remained that way until 1934 when it became an historic landmark of the American West.

After the tour we ate lunch at the OK Café, a narrow room made from boarding up one end of the ally next to the Bird Cage and placing a door at the street end. When strolling to our rigs we witness the main street shootout that continued into the OK Corral where the nefarious deed was done again. Then Wizard saw the Tombstone Stage Lines and thought we should have a stage coach ride to complete the feeling of the real west.

After Thaat Ride We Felt the West for Two Days

With a series of small problems plaguing The Rabbit, Phoenix seemed the most likely place for repairs, so off we drove early the following morning. Repairs completed, we headed for Scottsdale where we went on a buying spree in Porters Western Clothing Store for pants, shirts, skirt, shoes and the most luscious black western ladies hat with a great feather for me.

This worked up a huge appetite satisfied only by lunch at the Arcada Farms, a quaint outdoor restaurant. We entered through a black, wrought iron gate. On each side black iron lights overhung antique wooden ice boxes topped with several Mexican wood carvings of Pedro and His Donkey. The small open patio, shaded by large lemon and lime colored umbrellas, danced with sunlight flickering through a large Lippo pine tree that dripped from a cooling mist. We sat at a small round rainbow colored table with lemon and lime colored streamers flowing from each chair. There were bird houses and wind chimes in the Oleanders along the side walls. On the far side of the patio tall hollyhocks painted on the white wall leaned over an inviting entrance to a bakery. While we eat, Pedro, in his big sombrero, strummed ‘The Donkey Serenade.’ For desert we walked through the old section of Scottsdale. Through street after street, gallery after gallery, we wandered enthralled by the concentrated abundance of outstanding, world class talent in sculpture, painting and crafts. Some day I will return to savor more of this outstanding art colony.

Miles traveled to date: 4,747  Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Vol. 2, No. 04

July 29th, 2010

                    ON TO GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

In 96% heat we once again headed our rigs to the Great WIN Gathering in Utah. The two large motor fans under the hood of my motor home roared intermittently shattering the silence of the Tonto National Forest. We climbed the road around Mt. Ord to 5,000 feet. The engine worked beautifully serenading me more frequently with the base fans. At 6,000 feet the inclines increased in length and became steeper as we reached 7,000 feet at Clint’s Well. I can well believe if old Clint made the trip by donkey he needed to dig a well for the thick forest showed no spring or brook. Then there was no rest for the fans. I constantly down shifted to make it up the grades. We traveled through lush green forest finally peaking at 7,050 feet. Before the descent we passed through a beautiful grove of larch trees, fresh with the delicate spring green leaves, then clusters of leaning birches growing out of carpets of lime colored grasses. By now Wizard’s lead took him out of my sight on the down grade switchbacks. I Looked down the mountain over unguarded roads and 6% down grade signs that scared the living daylights out of me. I down shifted to second, but this did not hold the Ham Hog Hurrier back. I watched the speedometer began to climb. Braking became a game of brake, but don’t brake, for when they became hot they screeched. With white knuckles gripping the steering wheel and my heart pounding, I did my pedal dance back and forth through one 6% switch back after another.. When I dared to divert my eyes from the fenceless road I saw spectacular vistas of green mountains and hazy valleys. I hardly knew which stirred my mind more, the distant panorama or the roar of first gear, now my only hope of holding the Ham Hog Hurrier back. Still we wound back and forth rounding bends on narrow crags that defied placement of fences but seemed to have those joyful downgrade signs glued to them of 6%, 8%, and 10%. I could hear my son Scott’s parting words warning me, “Don’t strain first gear, stay off the brakes, second gear should hold back your speed.” I can tell you I found that second gear allowed my rig to galloped down the mountain side straining for the checkered flage. Then way off on the distant valley floor I could see Wizard’s 5th wheel, a white speck, just rolling off the last slope into the wee miniature town of Campe Verde shrouded in a distant blue haze. Suddenly a 40 foot motor home passed me in a swirl of dust and disappeared around the next bend doing 60 mph. That gave me courage. I shifted into drive, just let it all go, and spent the next 15 minutes careening around and down the edge of the mountain cliffs.

Entering the outskirts of Campe Verde I could hear a faint call on my CB, “Pink Lady, do you read me? Where have you been?”

In a very calm voice I replied, “Sightseeing.”

Just out side of Campe Verde is Montezuma Castle, a National Monument, a Smagua Indian ruin. The Smagua (Spanish for ‘without water’) farmers began building this five story, twenty room dwelling early in the 12th Century. It stands in a cliff recess one hundred feet above the valley. The village of Montezuma reached its present size in the 1300’s and was occupied for another century. In early 1400 they abandoned the entire valley, no one has yet found out why. In the gift shop Wizard bought me my National Parks Passport. Annually stamps are issued highlighting beautiful pictures of the parks within each of nine national regions plus one national stamp.

Close by we visited Tuzigoot(Apache for ‘crooked water’) that is the remnant of a Smaguan village built between 1125 and 1400. It crowns the summit of a long ridge rising 120 feet above the Verde Valley. It began as a small cluster of rooms and grew to seventy-seven ground floor rooms with very few exterior doors, entry was by way of ladders through openings in the roofs. The excavation was completed in 1935 by the Civilian Works Administration.

One of our country’s major works of nature beckoned us the following day. We headed for Mather Campground at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park where we spent four days basking in wind and snow.

Basking in te Wind

 Undaunted by our chilly reception we visited all the overlooks on the West and East Rim drives taking many pictures with my new Sony Camcorder that somehow materialized when Wizard waved his wand.

View from the South Rim

We were amazed at our first view of this 4.6 billion-year visual history of mountains once as high as the Himalays now eroded to their roots exposing layers of rock strata. In a mere four to six million years the debris-filled flood waters of the Colorado River cut through all the rock layers, sculpturing and polishing the Inner Gorge into the beautiful formation one views today.

View from the South Rim

Although snow covered the park, and cold winds blew along the rim, there were crowds of people at each viewing stop. At Bright Angle Train trail we met a group of hikers just going over the rim, all wearing shorts in anticipation of the warmth below. At another viewing stop we watched the donkey train begin its descent to the bottom of the canyon. A short way along the trail it met the ascending donkey train rounding a corner. Immediately strangers became friends exchanging soon to be shared experiences, fears and pleasures of this famous ride to the raging waters below.

The 1,904 square miles of the Grand Canyon became a national park in 1919. Then it boasted 45,000 visitors annually. Now the park is visited by well over five million a year. It seems the grandest canyon of them all suffers from too many tourists who drive to it, park, and get out to view its wonders. One solution the National Park Service is considering is allowing only drive-throughs, no stopping. Officials are also considering the feasibility of busing people into the Park from near by Tusayan. Presently the park is served by the Grand Canyon Railway. Cars are parked 65 miles away in Williams. Tourist board the train to enjoy a trip through the Old West Territory and the Kaibab National Forest on their journey to the South Rim. The Railroad provided service from 1901 to 1968. It reopened again in 1989.

One bitter cold and snowy afternoon we went to the IMAX Theater and enjoyed the movie depicting geological changes of the canyon. The last afternoon we sat on the porch of the El Tovar Hotel sipping our usual gin and tonic while enjoying the sunset colors of the canyon. When the far rim no long gleamed gold and all was dark purple we entered the El Tovar world-class restaurant for an unforgettable formal dining experience. Everyone wore casual walking cloths but every male waiter attended tables in formal attire, and all carried their trays elegantly raised high above their heads. We feasted on salmon, rice nests and braised vegetables. For dessert we chilled ourselves walking to our rigs with frozen canyon ice purchased while I waited to have my National Park Passport stamped under the beautiful 75th anniversary stamp.

Next morning, in blinding snow, we left the Canyon to return to Flagstaff for repairs to my VW and the Ham Hog Hurrier in preparation for the last leg of our trip to the Great WIN Gathering in Gooseneck Park at Mexican Hat, UT.

Miles traveled to date: 5,585 Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

vol. 2, No. 05

July 29th, 2010

                               MONUMENT VALLEY

On Route 40 from Flagstaff the Ham Hog Hurrier found its way to the Coconimo National Forest and once again began to climb on Route 89 around Humphrey Peak. The Painted Desert surrounded me as I headed north across the Moinkopi Plateau. The highest things in the plateau were the telephone poles along the roadside in a diminishing straight line to the distant mountains ahead. Also some small distant poles soon became Goliath high tension stanchion towers with massive outstretched arms supporting thick power lines gleaming in the sun. The deep blue sky became a cross hatch of tick-tack-toe contrail ribbons streaming after jet planes. In contrast the desert offered sparse tufts of dead grass that dotted the barren earth. Suddenly I passed a herd of goats grazing behind a large gathering of tumble weed clinging to a naked shrub. Further along, a lonesome grain elevator feed tube snaked its way down a hillside crossing over the road on a rusty bridge. It disappeared into a weathered, gray, grain elevator. Dust, seeping from the cracks of the tube, sprinkled my rig as I passed under it. Occasionally willows, poplars and scrubby pines in scattered clusters broke the monotony of the starved plain. The road began to skirt pink sand dunes that merged into distant rock cliffs, some dotted with low trees growing in sandy niches. The road edge sported a ribbon of bright orange flowers swaying in the breeze. Road signs designating Dinosaur Tracks, Navajo Country and Hopi Indian reservation glided by as the Ham Hog Hurrier climbed yet another ridge to a higher plateau. Here the desolate range of grass and sand was broken by several small Indian shops selling hand made rugs and dream catches.

The shops, made of four or five tall poles with cross beams were covered with blankets flapping in the wind offering intermittent protection from the sun. The flags of Arizona, the United Stated and Canada flew from the poles welcoming visitors. A hand made sign tilted beside the road announced “School Bus Stop” for the three, small, ramshackle houses a quarter mile behind the shops. Three miles down the road an old wooden school house, wedged between huge boulders, gave the only other sign of life. Still the orange flowers led to a perfect point at the base of a distant blue mountain.

After hours of driving I noticed long fingers of a dark cloud bank began to pierce the horizon. At the summit of the cut through the mountain I saw a distant ridge of white rock with a solid bank of smoky, gray clouds covering its peak. Could that be our destination. I passed a lonesome horse grazing by a rusty windmill thumping in the breeze trying to pump water. By mid-afternoon the cloud covered mountain seemed as far away as ever, but the Ham Hog Hurrier and I were in need of a stop. At Tonalea At Red Lake, AZ a General Store stood alone on the plain. Not a car at its door. Inside a lone Indian watched through a window the squeaking, rusty windmill lazily making half-hearted revolutions in the heat of the day. A long, cool drink of Gatorade and a short browse through the trading post revive me. I could not resist skeins of colored wool, nor the hook to crochet a canyon blanket for Wizard.

Resuming the long drive to Gooseneck Park through Red Lake Valley and Klethla Valley the only break in the flat land was the series of Goliath stanchions and a sign that stated, “Watch for Animals Next 80 Miles,” and some time after that “Watch for Falling Rock.” In front of me were high stone shapes that appeared as geometric boxes, pyramids, or a child’s high stash of blocks. Shadows in crevices distorted the shapes while shadows of passing clouds played on them giving them movement. Great boulders lined the road.

Now, at 5,000 feet, light defused as a thin layer of clouds rolled in to fill the sky. I saw peaks ahead enhanced by deep lavender bases fading to pale pink and beige tops. For a better view I opened my window and felt the ghosts laden breeze of Monument Valley, the Eighth Wonder of the World. I could not escape the scent and feel of the Canyon Lands. Monolith boulders, tilted at angles, overhung the road. As I looked straight up I could see jagged groves in the sides disappear in peaks of black, purple and blue. Then I saw a bow-legged Indian in rut brown pants. He wore a dust covered, torn shirt and black hat. He walked through the yellow flowers beside the road leaning on a crooked stick. Each step showed the pain of his limp. I passed him and looked in the rear view mirror. The changing light silhouetted him against a distant pink mountain. I thought, “Time passing time.” The sun broke through the clouds as I entered Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park where pink rocks contrasted with black and purple mountains reaching into a pale blue sky streaked with white cirrus clouds. The first hint of the Valley’s glory was a 1,500 foot high rock formation that towered over the Ham Hog Hurrier, dwarfing it like a child’s toy. Mesmerized by the likes of a huge Indian warrior, arms folded, braids hanging down each side of his head, I looked up with utmost respect for this geological wonder. Majestically it stood guard over the valley. Deep reds, maroons and rust colors accentuated details of what appeared to be a face that began to glow gold in the setting sun.. Topping its heat contrails fanned out across the sky forming a huge ceremonial head dress. That wondrous giant looked down at me with foreboding. Ahead great rock citadels gleamed as the sun began its last bow of the day casting its deep purple shadows that undulated over the sandy valley floor. Next I passed the likes of a stone Himalayan monastery with prominent mauve colored bell tower pinnacles. There were flat lands in this giant world with golden waves of petrified sand swirling like water, punctuated with mysterious, deep black holes. The road turned and I came upon a mammoth rock skull with two eyes and a crease for a nose. Two smaller giants stood by its side like ancient body guards to its lost mystery. Behind it were rock formation fingers reaching to heaven, and further along top hats with brims resting on the ground, and yet further a bear’s claw, dirt brown. I noticed that all the tips and tops of this world of giants were of the same elevation.

As I crested a rise, a gigantic rock city with towering red skyscrapers slowly rose from the prairie before my eyes. Closer to this magnificent wonder I saw the rubble base skirt of time. Pink, white and rust colors streaked across the upper layers as if they were rows of twinkling building lights. Other formations were chimneys with contrails of smoke. The landscape became a rich, rusty red dotted with blue green sage brush. Not a tree in sight.

The road twisted and turned to gain an elevation of 5,565 feet where a blanket of lemon green grass enhanced the rusty red wonders of erosion. Distant little stone fingers soon became huge thumbs and distant pinnacles became chimneys, some straight as an arrow with contrails for smoke, others deserted, crooked, and leaning like a Disney animation. As I drove the twisting road these formations seemed to move in and out gliding past one another as if they were being moved about by the giant finger of Mother Nature who had not yet decided their final arrangement.

Finally, I saw Mitchell Mesa, The Three Sister, Rain God Mesa, Thunderbird Mesa,

The Mittens

East and West Mitten Buttes,  and Elephant Butte, all radiant gold in the lowering afternoon sun. Beside the road, Indians sat outside their shops weaving colorful blankets on traditional rope and log looms. Navajo Tribal Park tour signs pictured mud and log hogans, their traditional dwellings.

Close by helicopters boarded people for flights over the valley.

Opposite the main monuments of the valley we stopped at Goulding’s Trading Post. This museum, operated by Harry and Leonoe “Mike” Goulding from 1920 to the mid 1960’s, recreated life used in the sixteen major western movies, and scores of commercials, once made in Monument Valley. The films Kit Carson, Stage Coach, and She Wore A Yellow Ribbon were well documented by posters on a the walls of a special room dedicated to John Wayne.

The straight road now led to a large mesa directly in front of me and I thought the Ham Hog Hurrier was in for another 8% climb. Then, what appeared as rock rubble from a distance, slowly took on the shapes of a film crew at work on a camera dolly filming actors in an old convertible. Suddenly, the road descended a 6% grade. Ahead of me a striking stratified mesa, like a child’s layered colored sand bottle, filled my view. The road took a hairpin turn to a 10% down grade and I descended deeper into the canyon. At the bottom, across the bridge over the smooth flowing San Juan river, the road made another sharp curve and began a 10% climb. Up along the steep side of the canyon to the plateau, and there was the sign:

                                          MEXICAN HAT

                                        POPULATION 64

We stopped at one of these wooden shanty’s, the Navajo Indian Trading post. Hugh chunks of petrified wood served as curb stones in front of the old wooded porch. Three Indians leaned against the wall on the back legs of their chairs talking while watching dream catchers strung from the eves swing in the breeze. Inside were colorful Indian blankets and hand made pottery. I bought more canyon colored yarn. My canyon blanket grew in seize with each new color I spied.

On the road again for the last miles to the WIN Gathering we came upon Mexican Hat Rock, for which the town is named. Shaped like an inverted, wide brim Mexican hat, it too glowed in the last rays of the sun. Legend is, a Mexican Vaquero and a young Indian woman fell in love near the river. Unfortunately, she was already married to an old, wicked medicine man who, when he learned of the young woman’s deception, turned the Vaquero to stone. All that is left of him is Mexican Hat Rock.

The road veered to the left as we passed the Rock headed toward Gooseneck State Park. In the distance I could see the WIN gathering perched above the San Juan River overlooking the goosenecks of the river 1,000 feet below.

Gooseneck Park

 It is said to be one of the most striking and impressive examples of an “entrenched meander” on the North American Continent. The river meanders back and forth flowing a distance of more than six miles while advancing only one and a half miles west in the direction of Lake Powell. This is the result of more than 300 million years of geologic history. We drove our rigs along the goosenecks and, with a flourish, circled through the tumble weeds to pull into place along side twenty other parked rigs, all a mere 10 feet from the rim. Parking in the sage brush at 7,000 feet was breath taking in more ways than one for in the distance one could see the diminished, blue hazy forms we had just passe – Monument Valley.

Miles traveled to date: 5,526 Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Vol. 2, No. 06

July 29th, 2010

                        THE GREAT WIN GATHERING

The WINners circle bulged beside the wagon master’s rig. Cheers of welcome and raised glasses greeted us. Once again outstretched arms signaled hugs to come. First Katherine and Carl, Fred, Irma, Ruth and Betty greeted me and the biggest surprise of all, my old friend from the 1993 Mardi Gras Treck, Dick Bacon. He swooped in behind me scooping me up in his arms for a hug and a kiss. Famous for his black hats, he pushed a new one back on his head saying nothing should be in the way of a WINers kiss. Just then a gust of wind came along swiping the hat from his head blowing it along under one rig after another with all of us chasing after it. Out of sight it blew. Everyone said it tumbled over the rim into the San Juan River below. Dick offered a reward for the missing hat hoping someone would climb down into the river to retrieve it. WINners are not that brave.

Rallying for the next day’s exploring began at nine a.m. Off we drove to the 1,500 foot Moki Dugway Mesa. It resembled a delicious torte with layers of white cake, chocolate cake, dark strawberry cake and thin lines of white frosting between the layers. The five mile per hour switchback climb traversed the face of the mesa past layer after layer. The narrow dirt road seemed to hang on the rock side and when four trucks towing bass boats descending the cliff passed us we held our breath and prayed for enough room. Certainly, from below, one could not see vehicles traveling the cliff road so well hidden in the torte. At the top we came upon a large herd of cows grazing, but no sign of a house, a barn, or any human being. Did some stout soul drive the heard up 1,500 feet on the switchback road?

After traveling several miles to the opposite rim we discovered the same film company we passed the previous day. The technicians were ready to film a sequence with Monument Valley as the back ground. Parked in the true western wagon train circle were a Bounder like mine, serving as dressing a room, a catering service, just setting up lunch, and several Pense Leasing Trucks, to carry equipment and personnel. I mingled with the London-based film crew, actors, director and took my own movies of the film crew setting up a Pontiac Catelina convertible on the rim of the mesa. They were going to film a Country Western Music commercial with a female lead. She gave me a short interview while struggling into extremely tight jeans. Later, discovering how to use my zoom lens, I filmed her acting as she bent over the rear bumper of the Catelina. I could tell she was very hard at work!

The following morning a young couple, Phil and Louise Shanbrook, from Cambridge, England, wheeled into our camp on a tandem bike named “Thomas II’ after the children’s story the “Tandem Train,” a story about the little blue train that could. The custom-made bike, by George Longstaff, fitted both the Shanbrook’s leg length. Extra tubing and spokes gave it added strength and supported six fresh drinking water bottles and one propane bottle for their camp stove. The bike weighed seventy pounds, and another eighty pounds, including a two room tent, all divided between Phil and Louise, completed their equipment. They crossed the Atlantic on the QE II and planned to cross the U. S. by bike, work their way across the Pacific Ocean aboard a boat to Australia, then on to Indonesia and Asia, and continue around the world on a two and a half year trip. Phil retired from the Royal Air Force after twenty-one years, Louise ended her Air Force career after eight years so they might pursue their dream trip. On the way across AZ they decided to take a train from Phoenix to Flagstaff to meet friends. When they discovered the train would be one hour late Louise got off to call ahead to inform their friends of the delay. When she returned to the train platform, the train was just pulling out. She grabbed onto the hand grip of the steps to their car and tried to pull herself up onto the step by running beside the train. Finally she had to let go and away sped her husband. He said he waved to her and settled down to read his book. She located the local police who took her to the bus station where she caught a bus and arrived in Flagstaff in time to greet her friends on time, and her husband who arrived twenty minutes later with a finished book.

Our last evening in camp a group of twenty WINners decided to go out to dinner. In Bluff, AZ (pop. 105) we found the Thai House Restaurant located in the Jens Nielson House, built in 1890 by the first Mormon Bishop in the area. We were greeted by the proprietor who bowed graciously saying, “Sa – What – Dee,” the traditional Thia greeting. Unbelievably delicious dinners, served on Thia china, of Koong-Ma Mauang-Hema Pahn, shrimp sautéed with cashew nuts, mushrooms, green peppers and scallions, pleased our pallets in a quaint dinning room cooled by a breeze that came through high windows from an adjacent meadow. Conversation centered on past exploits such as skiing and flying. Not to be outdone by my friends, I told the story of substitute teaching in a sixth grade art class. Trying to use up all the students energy prior to showing an art film, I instructed them to make paper airplanes after which the boys and girls flew them back and forth to each other. It was bedlam in the school room! Immediately the WINners folded the pink paper place mats into all different shaped airplanes and began sailing them about the dinning room aided by the a stiffening meadow breeze. They swooped through the chandeliers, glided over heads, drifted down on tables crashing into forks of chocolate cake held mid-air, or nosed into wine glasses.

Guess what? We can’t go back there again! 

Miles traveled to date: 5,585 Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Vol. 2, No. 07

July 30th, 2010

                             WINNERS ON THE ROAD

After three days at Gooseneck National Park the WINers decided to caravan to Moticello, Utah. One by one the rigs pulled out onto the road in a swirl of wind and dust. All at once the horns of the last three rigs blared incessantly. Looking back we saw Dick Bacon’s hat blow out from under the farthest rig, a little dusty, but none the worse for wear. Dick may have been minus a few dollars for the reward, but he gained a hat full of red dust and dirt never to be found any place else.

The caravan passed through the Valley of the Gods, a junior version of Monument Valley, with limestone, shale and sandstone formations 230 to 270 million years old. The morning sun shone on pyramids, pagodas, and slanting towers, all ghosts of time long past. Haunting shadows guarded their secrets. Next we came to Bluff, Utah, at 4,300 feet, population 250. Settled in 1880 by Hole-in-the-Rock pioneers, it became the first settlement in San Juan Country. We climbed the next 8% grade where the thin air caused the Ham Hog Hurrier to labor over even gentle rises. At the top, a range of snow capped mountains in the distance seemed forever the same as I crossed another plateau strewn with orange and yellow flowers. Black cattle dotted this plateau known as White Mesa. Here we left the Navajo Reservation and began crossing the Ute Indian Reservation. Soon we reached Blanding, Utah, 6,000 feet, population 3,800, known as the Gateway to the Trail of the Ancients. At Blanding everyone wanted to stop for food, fuel, and propane. Because we would be boon- docking again at our destination we all needed to dump our holding tanks. CB chatter took the form of a free-for-all about what and where.

“Food at Food Lion.”

“Where’s that?”

“Right on Rt. 163.”

“Oh, I just passed that.”

“Gas is $1.16 a gallon ‘round the corner from me.”

“Where are you?”

“Oh, I stopped a block off Route 163 on Route 119.”

“Where can I get water for my tanks?”

“Over at the corner gas station.”

“Where’s that?”

“Ahead one mile past Food Lion.”

“Where’s the black water dump?”

“Down the next side street, and they charged me eight dollars!”

“Eight dollars!”

“Yea, this stuff is like black gold. It cost more to get rid of it than to buy drinking water!”

Continuing on the road north, the snow covered, and deeply creased, mountains ahead seemed as if ski trails spilled down its sides into the valley below. Their color drifted down from the snow peaks changing from light blue to deep blue, and at the base dark purple that soon became the tree line of the Bleu(Abajo) Mountains. My engine roared, the cooling fans roared, and the whole caravan slowly climbed to 7,000 feet where, along the rim, we looked down on Devils Canyon National Forest. Again I tried to gain speed at each dip in the road, but the air was so thin the engine persisted in its sluggish roar. Knowing it was little use to try to gain momentum I resorted to using first gear. Then as I reached the plateau a cattle truck passed me with a dog on the roof of the cab, its nose pointed into the wind. I understood why after it passed me. At 7,069 feet we came to Monticello, population 2,000, settled in 1888 named by early settlers because this green, pleasant area reminded them of Thomas Jefferson’s Virginia home. It is famous for uranium and other mineral mining.

The LaSal Mountains, a larger range of snow-covered mountains appeared in the distance ahead. Low cloud cover gave the appearance of floating mountain peaks. The air became colder as I down shifted to climb again around the north side of Blue Mountain. The wind came up in great gusts laying flat the silver grasses beside the road that continued between red cliff mesas pointing to an expanse of barren flatlands. In its midst only Church Rock stood like a lonely house of God, its red rock steeple glowed orange in the sun. Close by the rock a sign pointed left, “Newspaper Rock State Park Campground.” I turned onto a narrow road that soon began a 10% down grade. The Ham Hog Hurrier descended a red-walled canyon barely making one switch back after another. My white knuckles clutched the wheel as the Ham Hog Hurrier crawled along at 15 miles per hour down into the bowels of the canyon. Strewn on each side of the road house size boulders rested where they rolled out after falling from the canyon walls. Beside the road a swift, narrow stream raced down the canyon exceeding the speed limit. At the bottom it broadened, slowed, and wandered about the flat lands among the cotton wood trees. Here the WINners found small openings among the trees in which to wedge their rigs. It was charming, cozy and warm again under a canopy of yellow spring leaves. Once again, as I unhooked the Rabbit Tail, it persisted in balking. To the rescue came Carl, just returned from climbing to the top of Newspaper Rock cliff. He worked on the engine all afternoon in the rain while telling us of the wonders of Newspaper Rock. By late afternoon the sky cleared, and just as the last rays of the sun flooded the valley, we strolled across the road to see the most interesting sight of the Park.

“Newspaper Rock” gleamed golden in the sunlight. The huge rock, at the base of a cliff was literally covered with ancient markings of unknown origin. There were pictures of foot prints and hand prints, horses, people who looked like space visitors, circles that looked like flying saucers. A short distance from these famous petroglyphs were the Needles. These tall, straight and slender, red rock formations were left after surrounding, softer rock eroded away. They were a cotillion of frozen dancers, complete with lighter red rock, embroidered, bouffant rock rubble petticoats all scattered on a carpet of lemon green grass and silhouetted against a darkening sky.

Cold descended into the canyon that night along with a steady rain mixed with sleet. The following morning we heard the roaring, muddy waters of the swollen river next to our rigs, so four of us decided to pull out for the Canyonlands Campground in Moab, UT. There we would enjoy electricity, water and sewer hook-ups. After eight days of desert and canyon boondocking, we were ready for long, hot showers, and cable TV. The early morning trip to the top of the canyon was slow as each rig climbed back up the switch back road out of the canyon. At last the four-rig caravan began plowing through slushy snow as we started back to Church Rock, where the road turned left toward Moab, UT.

Miles traveled to date: 5,823 Copyright©1995 by Anita Bacon All rights reserved